Step Up/Step Down - - - by Liz Davies (aka "Mom")

 

 

Experienced bird owners know that if you can only have one command, this is the one to have.  It’s critical for any bird that will be permitted out of its cage, and it should be the first command taught.


Basic Training

To train a bird to step up, put your finger, hand, or a dowel (depending on the size and temperament of your bird) just below the bird’s belly (above the feet) and give the command.  When you first begin this training, give the command and immediately move your finger/hand/dowel so that you are gently pushing into the bird’s mid-chest and moving back and up.  This causes the bird to lose a bit of balance, and it will step on the thing you are offering just to regain balance.  As soon as the bird has both feet on, tell him/her “Good bird!” and repeat the command and gesture.

After a while, the bird will step up with less hesitation, and you’ll find you don’t have to push up or back to get him to step up.

Periodically giving short "step up drills" (5-6 "step up" commands in a row) seems to help reinforce compliance and help the bird learn to respond instantly.  If the bird "thinks about it" before complying, I don't consider it fully "step up" trained.  I'm looking for a "Pavlov's Dog" auto-response.


Some Tips

There are some things to think about that will help you and your bird learn more quickly:

  1. Be sure the finger, hand, or dowel is steady (not waving around).  The bird needs to be confident that the surface will be safe and reliable to stand on.
  2. Hold your finger/hand/dowel straight and horizontal (not at a slant).  A confident and well-trained bird will step up on an uneven surface, but one that isn’t confident will be uneasy and hesitant.
  3. Do display confidence yourself when you give the command.  The bird does want to understand what you want, and will do as you ask once he or she is clear about it.  If you are more confident, the bird will have more confidence in you! 
  4. Be aware that many birds (especially younger ones) will try to reach for your finger with their beak.  Don't confuse this with an attempted bite; the bird just wants to feel your finger and satisfy itself that you are offering a steady and safe perching surface.
  5. Don’t praise the bird for putting only one foot up.  Wait until he’s completely stepped before sounding the victory bells.

Its helpful to experience having a mature (and obedient) bird step up for you before you try training your own bird.  It helps to know what it feels like to have a bird step on your finger or hand (the weight, the way they grasp, etc.).  The larger the bird, the more true this is.  Watching someone else pick up a bird just isn’t the same as doing it yourself.  If you practice with an experienced bird a few times before you start training yours, you’ll find it all that much more easy and natural.


About Step Down and Other Variations

There is a school of thought that says you should use the command "step" instead of "step up".  That's because some feel that if you tell the bird to step up or down, it will be confusing for the bird.

They may have a point, but I still use "step up" and "step down" - mostly because 30 years of habit is hard to overcome.  Sometimes I say "step" instead - and the resulting response seems pretty much the same.  My birds are probably responding more to my tone of voice and the word "step" than anything else.  Although I do know that some of them are very intelligent, I don't have any reason to believe that they discern between the words "up" and "down".


Being "Bratty"

The ideal situation is when your bird is so well trained that he/she will "step up" for you without any hesitation at all.  You will want to attain that if you can, because it may come in handy some day if you must retrieve your (frightened) avian companion quickly in an emergency situation.

Even without the emergency scenario, however, consistent (obedient) compliance is extremely important.  So important, in fact, that non-compliance cannot be tolerated. 

All parrots seemed to be "wired for dominance", and will occasionally push the boundaries a bit to see what they can get away with.  Macaws, in particular, seem to do this fairly regularly.  Willfully going where they are not allowed (kitchen table, curtain rods, the top of my head) may be irritating, but deliberate refusal to "step up" is different.  Refusal is a serious offence and, for us, is an important indicator that the bird is getting out of control.

A bird that refuses to "step up" will be immediately required to do "step up drills" (5-6 step up commands in a row).  This is done to drive home the point of "you will do this when told to no matter what."  If the bird refuses to participate in the drill, he or she gets an immediate 10-minute timeout (in the cage with the cover pulled down), followed by a short drill when the "timeout" is over.  If "timeouts" are earned over a succession of days, more drastic measures (from simple things like relocating the cage to the severe response of wing clipping) are employed. 

The sooner I respond to a bird's "bratty day" behavior, the less likely it is that I'll need to do more than run through one set of "step up drill".